The problem with having a queen size bed and a penchant for vintage furniture? The apparent lack of queen sized headboard options pre-1970 or affordable new headboards that aren’t completely terrible. So, this meant for the past four plus years we’ve been riding headboardless against cold plaster walls while our pillows continuously crept into that seemingly bottomless pillow-eating crack and pretty much everything was terrible.

Enough is enough.

After staying at The Ace awhile ago and enjoying the comfort of their cushy headboards, I thought, “hey, I can DIY a big pillow thing for a headboard. Look how warm my head is! Look how my pillow stays in place! This is the answer to all my problems!”

Then I remembered how much I hate sewing. (So much)

Good thing my favorite crotchety canvas fabricator dude LOVES sewing and also had some vintage fire tarp laying around, you know, the exact same stuff I used for those sling chairs.

Um, I call this DIY delegating? I mean, I’m so happy I hired someone to sew this, but if you love to sew, the shape couldn’t be simpler. So…anyways…

I gave him some dimensions, a few reference photos and about $100 and he made me a giant box pillow headboard type thing out of used fire tarp in about a week. After getting CRAZY expensive quotes on solid foam, I ended up ordering 30 pounds of shredded foam (at about $1 a pound – FYI) to stuff it with. Then, boom, giant cushy headboard.

The dimensions I went with are:  72″w x 28″t x 12″d.

Even though I overbought foam for the calculated cubic feet needed to fill those dimensions, it didn’t end up being enough foam to stuff the thing tightly…and…maybe…I regret how deep I designed this thing to be.

It’s too deep!

At 12″ deep, the whole headboard bulged out way more in the middle (once stuffed) than I had anticipated. This bulging situation also ended up pushing the bed way too far off the wall. So, I am going to have my canvas dude fix it to be way less deep. Like 8″ instead of 12″. So, that means the foam thing won’t be an issue?

Yup? I think.

Narrower means it’ll be plenty stuffed and closer to the wall and then all will be right in the world. Hooray.

For a first run prototype, this worked out alright in the end. Admittedly, there are some kinks to fix and I would like to try making another one of these in a different type of fabric for our master bedroom.

Say what? Fire tarp isn’t super soft?

Nope. Not at all.

But it looks AWESOME.

Funny thing is, for all it’s issues, I just can’t get Iggy off this thing. He is in love with it. IN LOVE. But Bowie? Well, he’s not so convinced and prefers to stick with itchy kilim pillows.

What a nerd.

Headboard version 1.0? Still a bit buggy.

Version 2.0 in the works.

All in all, if you have a bed and no headboard this could be a nice solution. It’s totally customizable, totally affordable to make (or have made) and totally soft on your noggin.

If you saw Emily Henderson’s blue office makeover or Cassandra’s red red redo on Coco and Kelley, then it’s old news that it’s Sherwin-Williams National Painting Week. I’m celebrating paint and painting and paint related things with a bit of DIY and the funnest of yellows, Fun Yellow.

DIY? Say what.

Here’s what: Burl. Jute. Color Dipping. Magic.

Lets do this thing.

…………………..

MATERIALS

TOP
2 – wood tops/whatever you’d like to use. *I used two slabs of vintage redwood burl I found on Craigslist, but you can use anything your heart desires. Like maybe burl? Oh, wait.

LEG
6 – 1/2″ x 10″ galvanized steel pipe
6 – 1/2″ galvanized floor flange
1 – jute twine
1 – paint *I used Sherwin Williams Fun Yellow

TOOLS
1 – drill
24 – screws
1 – glue *I used Gorilla Super Glue. Why? It was already here.
1 – masking tape
1 – small paint brush

HOW TO

1. Screw the steel pipe (or nipple – if you prefer the hilarious technical terminology) into the flange.

2. Squeeze a dollop of glue onto the base of the threaded part of the pipe and attach the end bit of that jute twine.

3. Wrap jute twine around the entire length of the pipe. Yes, it’s boring, but really doesn’t take that long.

*Be sure to keep the twine slightly taut as you wrap and also as you’re wrapping, it helps to push the wrapped twine down towards base for even coverage.

4. Finish wrapping the length of the pipe and cut the twine.

5. Tuck the loose twine bit into the pipe and secure with a spot of glue.

Now you have a fully jute wrapped leg. Hooray.

*Smart person tip: notice how the twine actually wraps over the pipes rough threaded end in order to protect delicate floors and such? Be nice to your floors!

6. Measure 3″ down from the foot end of the pipe.

7. Tape around the pipe horizontally at this 3″ mark.

8. Dip the securely taped leg into some paint. Like yellow maybe?

*Smart person tip: Stuff old newspaper bits or paper scraps into the leg hole so it won’t fill up with paint and drip forever.

9. Brush off any excess paint drips with a small brush and lay the leg down to dry.

10. Once the paint fully dries, go ahead and remove the tape slowly and carefully to keep the paint edge crisp.

Repeat and repeat and repeat all of those steps as needed.

FACT : tables need more than one leg. Crazy, but true.

Look at you, you sassy finished legs. Hey now.

OK, now that every leg is jute wrapped, color dipped and thoroughly dry – then what happens?

Well, these babies can’t wait to hold stuff off the floor.

The time is now.

Lets go nuts.

Screw the finished legs onto whatever top you’ve scrounged up and then repeat and repeat and repeat. Do I need to say that the screws go through the flange holes? No, but I did.

Anyways. Boom. Legs. Done.

Now you have the power to transform anything into a table. Use it wisely.

Look whose all screwed on and ready to be a nightstand! You legs! That’s who!

Go get in the guest bedroom, you silly gooses.

Adding these custom dipped boots of color to the jute wrapped legs helped float the nightstands off the black wall and wood floor in all the best possible ways. The final tables turned out way better than I’d dare hope, which is great since I’ve gotten incredible tired of looking for nightstands.

All my problems? Solved.

DIY accomplished. Done and Done.

Even notoriously pretentious Iggy-pup is impressed. He also asks that you ignore that new headboard situation happening. Details soon.

Oh, so just in case nightstands aren’t your jam – no worries, my feelings aren’t that hurt – methinks this project can easily be customized to anything and everything you’d like to wrap in jute or color dip. Like your friends? Neighbors? Or maybe something more practical, like taller legs for a dining table?

Color boots for everyone.

…………………..

For more color fun, check out Amanda Hill’s project launching tomorrow over at Recycled Consign and Design. Thanks again to Sherwin-Williams inviting me to participate and helping sponsor my project for National Painting Week.

I picked up this hunky bit of burl some time ago with plans to rip off those too tall and weirdly sad peg legs that had been slapped on it. This chunk of redwood burl is everything I’ve been dreaming of in a coffee table, so I wanted to do something spectacularly special and possibly brassy for the base?

So, of course I gave up after a few weeks of failed ideas and worse attempts at brassy greatness by throwing some basic hairpin legs on this puppy.

Come on.

Sometimes you’re on eBay and you’re fed up and you buy some 12″ hairpin legs and call it a goddamn day.

Three legs with three screws each and boom, done. No more stressing out about legs.

Now it sits at the right coffee table height (about 15″) and these new hairpin legs don’t actually offend me. I like the contrast in materials and maybe I’ll eventually figure out how to get some brassy ones on there. For now, this is working out great.

ADMIT IT. That’s some good wood.

So burly.

The living room is still going through some changes, so pretty please let’s all agree to just ignore the layout. Focus on that chunk of amazing wood. It’s growing on you. You like it.

Burls.

I’m nothing if not obsessive, ridiculously self-critical and weirdly competitive with that cheapskate thing layered in for extra fun. Not a great combo for basic stuff like a sense of contentment or feelings of ease and satisfaction. Unfortunately, I’ve been having trouble finding modern miniature stuff on my thrifty routes and thought that instead of buying a bunch of super pricey premade mini furniture that wasn’t quite right for my Dollhouse Challenge, why not just build everything from scratch? Which is probably crazy person thinking.

Especially considering that CERTAIN people do micro better.

So, all my art school tools got dusted off and the local craft store hit up for all that craft wood, felt and leather scraps usually only encountered in my darkest nightmares. Of course, now there is a giant mess in the dining room from experimenting with materials and substandard construction methods, because I learn mainly through failure. Screw research.

Wait, what am I going to do with all this mini stuff when this is over?

Great.

Let’s not think about the future. Let’s look at that mini gray sofa instead. LOOK. It’s made of felt and basswood and tears.

Or look! After only three failed attempts I built a leather sling chair and ottoman…which probably needs to be tweaked and remade to address a few problems. But it’s fine for now? Or until my self-critical crazy brain wins and forces a rebuild.

Hey, a bench.

Yeah dude, I totally hand cut and sculpted those balsa wood legs like a pro. Totally mitered the crap out of the corners and slammed a craft store birch plywood veneer on top.

That’s how I roll.

Worked so nice I did it twice. With a coffee table.

This chunky mini dining table is made from a 99¢ “mosaic plaque wood blank” with four pieces of balsa slapped on for legs. Less than 10 minutes and $1.50 to build.

BOOM. Done.

Check out my “credenza” that doesn’t open or store anything. It’s all an illusion, except for the brass legs. Those are real brass.

This reminds me that at some point I need to decide on finishes (stains? oil? paint?) for all this sad crafty birch-colored wood. Maybe I should upgrade to nicer woods? Oh, but that sounds like it requires some effort and more money…so nope.

Boom. Another bench? Shut up. I like building benches.

And yes this is “upholstered” in fine leather (which means I glued scrap leather to balsa wood). Luxurious.

Right after I photographed my mini sling chair I dropped it and boom, looks like my patented “throw more glue on it” method of construction didn’t hold up so well.

Luckily, since I’m a genius, I knew to throw more glue on it and now it’s like it never happened. Except for all the visible glue.

Speaking of, I’ve become pretty glue reliant. Why do things right when you can glue your problems away? It’s too bad glue looks sloppy on fabric (as demonstrated via my pillow experiments), so still looking to resolve the mini textile issue…but I despise sewing. HOW CAN ONE PERSON FACE SUCH ADVERSITY?

BTW, this headboard / sloped ceiling / bed frame conundrum still requires solutions. Among many other things…

Things in context. Glorious.

I’ve neglected to finish building the a-frame structure or decide on it’s finer details since finishing stuff or focusing on doing one thing at a time is for suckers. Chaos is way cooler.

OK. Only a million more mini things to do.

*BTW – if you enjoy mini stuff (or dogs), check out & follow thebrickhouse : instagram feed. Expect an overabundance of terrible shots of my mini experiments & the chihuahuas (or liquor & food).

A little while back Laure and I went through her storage and pulled out a few portfolios filled with large scale photos she had taken during art school. We framed one great landscape for her bedroom and it looked so crazy amazing that she graciously let me borrow this softly colored desk shot so I could have a big ‘ol framed photo as well.

I hung it and looked at it and then texted her a picture of everything installed.

While it’s a great piece, we both agreed that it was being completely overpowered by the fireplace. Off to another spot with you!

The area above the fireplace has been an ongoing struggle, with many unsatisfactory incarnations including these – HERE – HERE - HERE.

The problem is scale.

Our ceilings are a standard 8′ tall, but the fireplace rides pretty high on the wall allowing for a mere 37″ of white space above the mantel. Two thin windows flank the fireplace on either side and their top moldings create a weird invisible horizontal line across the wall. When anything hangs near or above this strange visual trickery the ceiling begins to feel really low, while conversely, the art appears to be hung way too high.

Then there’s that mantel.

Blech.

Overly fussy and completely under-scaled, this has been one of those “I’ll get to it projects” that never seemed to be gotten to. All I’ve ever imagined doing was installing a simple but chunkier wood mantel over the top of this thing. Something boxy, something easy to build, something budget friendly.

Excuse my terrible photoshopping, but a solution as simple as this uncomplicated wood box would be better scaled and suited for the fireplace mantle, easily constructed and pretty cheap materials-wise.

Screw it. Why not go all change crazy and paint the brick a lighter color like a soft gray/almost white. Or go slightly less nuttier and paint the thing a true black.

(I’m leaning lighter – if for no other reason than to shake things up)

Over the mantle art-wise is still an issue. I’ve hunted for the perfect long and lean piece to snuggle up into that strangely proportioned spot and have come up with ZERO things after almost four years of searching. Time to DIY.

Surprise surprise. I can’t afford a Stella or a Judd or any blue chippy art. I mean, I wish I could – that would be INCREDIBLE – but I can’t even find an affordable no-name modernist abstract painting or mid century fiber art wall hanging, let alone ANYTHING that’s both famous and super long and lean.

Making some fauxart has long been a noodle in my brain (and something I have done before). Why not. Faking it is fun.

I’ve been mocking up a few different (easily made) options – but SHOCKER – this long/thin composition isn’t widely popular with artists whose work I dig. Or really any artists. ‘Cause it’s weird.

Firstly, a fake Ed Ruscha, well actually it’s from his art book THEN & NOW. I don’t know, it’s not a favorite – I just always liked that project and this typography. Plus this would be so easy to make.

Next idea was a fake Matthew Brannon. I always liked his larger scale installations – like the Whitney limply coiled eel, a reoccurring motif in his work. It’s the right scale and I love an eel.

Otherwise, most of the artist’s work that I love looks awkward as hell squished into a format like this or is too labor intensive for my quick and dirty faker style. I though I could pretty easily pull-off something text based like a Weiner or a Holzer or a Shrigley or a Nauman or even a Baldessari – but nothing felt quite right (even though I love me some Weiner).

I’ll always remember this story a teacher once told me about going to another rather famous artists studio. He was admiring all the Jasper Johns and Warhols (or things equally blue chippy) and asked about the pieces. “Oh those? They’re all fakes – I just made them. Come on, I can’t afford that shit.”

Mantel first, forgery later, methinks.

BOOM.

It’s mother-effing fauxdenza* time.

We could flashback to the rough beginning of this particular fauxdenza via the power of HYPERLINKS or maybe just scroll down for a refresher.

OK. Let’s get our DIY on.

FAUXDENZA

Dimensions: 10′ long x 13-1/2″ deep x 33″ tall

Materials:

Ikea

8  -  Applad Doors (15 x 18″)
4  -  Akurum Wall Cabinets (30 x 18″)
8  -  Integral Hinge (2 pack)
2  -  Akurum Suspension Rail

Lumber

1  -  Wood  (14′ L x 15″W x 1″T) *I used Afrormosia

Tools:

Drill
Circular saw
Level
Tape Measure
Ratchet
Screws + appropriate anchors
Shims
Steel Wool
Fine Sandpaper
Danish Oil
Feed n’ Wax
Clean Rags

This poor, strange living room wall…

There was once a pipe shelf. Then I got bored with that. Then nothing for a bit. Then a floating storage credenza sounded good. Yup. Fauxdenza.

The whole fauxdenza thing boils down to just installing Ikea kitchen cabinets way, way too low. Since the tops of the wall cabinets aren’t meant to ever be seen and are all uglified, making some sort of aesthetically pleasing top becomes necessary. But first, installation.

The Akurum suspension rail system is designed to levely hang Akurum wall cabinets very simply. Of course, to install the rail you have to choose appropriate wall fasteners for your walls. For our plaster walls, screws into studs plus heavy duty anchors worked perfectly.

I test mounted the cabinets to see what the plumb/level situation was going to be when confronted with our old plaster walls.

Obvious shocker. Old plaster walls are really uneven.

The walls are wonky, but the other installation hurdle was that creepy giant non-functioning heater thing. Not only did it ugly up  the place, it’s location blocked the centered installation of the loooonnng fauxdenza.

So we removed the internal bits, framed out the wall, patched and painted it up (although, finding matching molding and large floor grates are still an issue).

Old house + plaster walls = Gappity gap gap

The last cabinet had a pretty large gap since the plaster wall took a sudden curve.

To correct the gap, first we shimmed the rail with some broken paint sticks from Home Depot, because that’s how we roll (unprofessionally). It was clear that the initial shim was nowhere near deep enough. We tested out how deep it had to be by sticking those little furniture foot pads onto the rail (unprofessionally).

Turns out, the last cabinet needed over an inch of the wackiest shimming you’ll never, ever see.

With the extreme shimming resolved and stuff hanging level, hiding the enormous new shim gap was the next quandary. The simple wood top I had planned on installing had to continue and wrap around the sides of the cabinets to disguise the monstrous shim gap.

For the newly expanded wood wrap, it felt best to find a better grade hardwood than I could grab at Home Depot.

With some brief googles I found Peterman Lumber, a local mill/lumber yard that specializes in domestic and exotic woods. They have wood wood, you know, wood you take seriously. Wood that won’t take crap from no one, no how.

Tight budget in mind, I settled on a 14 foot long piece of Afrormosia, which is an excellent and – cough* cough* - cheaper teak substitute. Fauxteak.

At about 15 inches wide by an inch thick, the piece I picked ran about $100 and looked purtty.

We used a handheld circular saw to cut the wood down to size. No fancy woodworking, no miters. Just simple straight lines.

I traced along the front edge of the cabinet door onto the wood sitting on top of the cabinets and pressed flush against the wall. No brainer, no craziness. Cut on the traced line for a superb custom fit.

Each joint, as well as the edges, got a quick sanding to knock down any unevenness and smooth things out.

The rest of the wood got prepped with a once over sanding using super fine steel wool. Pretty much, I went with the same process that I use to restore vintage furniture to treat this new wood. Slap on a few coats of Danish oil and a few coats of Feed n’ Wax and…

Bam.

That untreated wood darkens up and looks incredible.

To attach the wood, I predrilled a few holes through the inside of the cabinet frames and screwed into the bottom of the wood to secure it; of course, do not go through it completely. It only takes a few strategic screws to set the wood solidly in place, all fancy looking.

Initially, I had planned on using the Ikea Strecket handles and tested them out a bunch during the cabinet installation. Once the wood went on though, the handles suddenly looked way too fussy and got nixed.

Having no handles on the doors has been fine. The cabinets are high enough that I can comfortably grab the bottom door edge to open things up without any awkwardness.

Done and done.

For about $300, some labor and some problem solving, we custom-built a ten foot long floating credenza that adds tons of storage while being perfectly scaled and custom fit on an awkwardly long and barren entryway wall.

Being both super customizable and easily constructed, the fauxdenza seems a clever DIY solution for a wide spectrum of storage conundrums. Plus it looks sexy doing it, which never hurts.

The Potence lamp by Jean Prouvé is one of those elegantly minimalist lighting solutions that appears easier to construct than it actually is. Well, for me at least. I tried and failed, MISERABLY, to build an affordable DIY version for our bedroom and eventually gave up hope. Then? This email popped up brimming with pictures of a homemade version of the Potence that blew me away. Logan of ONEFORTYTHREE had written a comment long, long ago when I first posted about trying to build one of these thangs -

“Logan on February 1, 2011: I like the lamps but you’ve inspired me to try and make that wall lamp. It looks cool but too expensive to consider buying. If I can, YOU can! cause I’m a self-taught DIY’er too.”

Then? He totally f*cking did it. Like a DIY champion. Also, nope – turns out I can’t.

BOOM.

Did I mention that I kind of slobbered all over his emailed pictures and was like ohhh, ahhhh, woooow, you are a master fabricator, you are amazing, it turned out so great, mine failed so miserably…wink wink, nudge nudge.

So, Logan had been building a few of these tester lamps for friends and family while figuring out kinks and streamlining the fabrication process. I somehow ended up being lucky enough to get my hands on not one but TWO of the prototype versions. By unashamed groveling, perhaps?

One white version for the bedroom – which can swivel and swing to illuminate whichever area your heart desires.

And one black version for the den. Both areas we tend to relax, enjoy a good book or perhaps a long game of Words With Friends.

See? It swivels! You use the little wooden handle to move the lamp into position.

I love the detail of the braided cloth cord and handy little on/off switch positioned a little ways down the wiring. Logan worked it out on the little details to keep the lamp sleekly minimal but with areas of warm texture.

Chihuahua for scale.

My lamps are about six feet long and are perfect and I love them. Loved them so much and was so impressed by their handmade completely from scratch construction that I may have been a little forceful about Logan making a few available for sale. Maybe because I want to put them in all the homes I’m working on? Maybe out of complete selflessness? Weld! Weld till your fingers bleed!

Be sure to check out ONEFORTYTHREE for the DIY how to as well as even more of Logan’s great DIY projects and home renovation. A limited run of these lamps will be available in his newly minted ETSY STORE. Check them out and be on the lookout for additional handmade items to be added in the near future (wink wink, nudge nudge Logan).

*Also, homeboy just got engaged to his lovely, talented and hilarious lady. Congrats! Roxy was rocking some Vegas style bling at the big sale for realz.

I’ve been helping out Shelly Leer – aka ModHomeEc – with the design of her brand new upholstery workshop in Indianapolis. Shelly is a fantastic upholster and hosts classes to teach folks the ins and outs of fixing up and reupholstering their old forlorn stuff (a skill I can really appreciate).

With this open warehouse space, one big design issue Shelly needed help with was figuring out how to layout and define areas for various work and private “zones”. She needed areas for tools, areas for storage, an area for a personal office, a waiting area, an area to teach and work with students and so on and so forth. Functionally, this one big room had to be used for many many purposes and still be open, accessible and of course look awesome.

Since cost is always an issue (and this space is a rental), it wasn’t prudent to dump a bunch of cash into building traditional solid walls that would split up the space and make it feel smaller and darker. My solution was to build these vertical jute rope division walls that allowed for defined “zones” but still retained light and visibility throughout the entire space. A plus when using this type of jute rope is the added benefit of bringing in a chunky / graphic / warm texture to an otherwise cold and hard industrial room.

The construction process is pretty simple. Wood boxes were custom built with evenly spaced rope sized holes drilled through the top and bottom. Precut sections of rope were strung through the top and tied off at the bottom, allowing for the interior knot to hold the rope in place and taut. Just screw close the open side of the box and all those ugly knots are hidden away.

With this design the overall costs are kept pretty low for such a big impact. Rope is cheap, especially when bought in bulk, and wood boxes are very low cost to build. The true cost is going to be labor and time – it’s just a tedious and super repetitive process.

Come on. Hotness.

I think the outcome is pretty spectacular. Not that I’m bias or anything.

This roped off area is actually Shelly’s office!

I’m completely thrilled with how these rope walls came together and so happy I didn’t have to lift a finger and do any of the actual labor. There is another wall in the works that I’m pretty excited to see completed as well as other awesome ideas that came from designing Shelly’s new workspace to be affordable, functional and downright ‘effing stylish.

At this point I was hoping to be like, Hey! Check out all my stuff posted on eBay for pre-sale leading up to the big SALE! Look at all this previewed awesome furniture and other crap! Look at all that I have accomplished!

Well…that didn’t happen. Whoops.

But, I did build a little studio space (on my ghetto porch) so that I can take photos. Because why do something the easy way, when you can get all crazy and nit-picky and do it the super maniacal extreme way. I’ve been hunting for a cheap solution for this weird photo dilemma, which is that basically I need a designated area to take nice/clear/pretty photos.

Problems?

+ The house is jam packed, hoarder style.
+ There are no free walls with a corner and good light inside.
+ It is SO hard to move big furniture in and out of the tiny exterior doors.
+ The garage? HA! Where do you think all this extra stuff lives?
+ I plan on needing a nice little photo space for some time – but I want the inside of the house to stay a house.

The solution was to build these super cheap temporary walls on the back porch. Trust when I say that they are so ‘effing ghetto. Four pieces of 1/4″ drywall, six 2×4′s and some electrical tape.

Yeah. That’s right – they are literally taped and clamped together – but still freestanding so that eventually they can be moved off the porch and into the garage (if they don’t crumble out of sheer embarrassment).

During “construction” I may have broken our poor Fado porch light. Maybe I also hurt myself. Maybe I also designed them to be so cheap that I created a bunch of stupid extra work. Next time, maybe I’ll fork over a few extra dollars to build some complete frames instead of the “budget” version I thought was so brilliant (it wasn’t).

But at least. At the very least. I don’t have to look at the ugly nailed shut door and weird ghetto porch pipes anymore. This sort of confirms an idea I’ve been kicking around about doing some sort of wood wall treatment out here…

Guess what. These sloppy faux walls totally work!

Not just work, but are A-to the-MAZING.

It’s so nice and so easy to move furniture in there and not screw up my floors or bang the door frame or have the dogs jumping into every photo. I love it. LOVE LOVE. The light is great and it’s this little fun fake room I can style up however I please.

I’ve also been sorting through piles of vintage stuff fixing it up and deciding what stays and what goes. Lots of these tasty pieces never really got mentioned on the old bloggity…

Like this gorgeous Danish surfboard style rosewood coffee table. It. Is. YUMMY. Mmmmhmmmm.

Now that I built my little photo area, I’m working on getting this sale thing up and running. It’s madness, though. Total madness around here. I mean, seriously, I’m one lady and there are piles of stuff. PILES.

More previews & info soon. Better be. May 15th is coming fast.

My little DIY fence bench was a top finalist for the ReadyMade 100 and was recreated for the magazine and published with instructions for their April/May issue. Sadly, I didn’t win top bad ass project because I failed. I’m a failure.

Oh come on, I’m just screwing around. It’s awesome and I’m super psyched to be included.

Here is the original bench in all it’s reclaimed woody glory. You can check out instructions for making it HERE. Also, it looks like you can order a book that includes all 100 projects right HERE.

Thanks to ReadyMade and all the judges for thinking I’m only a little bit of a failure. You know, on the winningest side of failure.